Hard Core II builders - Page 15

SapperLohr · #**211** (**permalink**) 05-08-2004, 12:32 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by elvisthecat
Someone said they received a service/parts manual with their hardcore II. Unfortunately, I did not get one, and my understanding is that the service manual is some type of harley service manual that the distributor can opt to throw in if they choose. Since I will have to buy one of these, which harley service manual should I get?

Call the dealer that you brought your kit from, and they will call Custom Chrome. CC will then ship your books to your dealer, and you can go get them. I had to do that, and it took about a week to get them. CC DOES supply them, though, it is not an option.

If you run into anything else, let us know, these guys are REALLY helpful when you have a question, and they haven't let me down yet.
SL

SapperLohr · #**212** (**permalink**) 05-08-2004, 12:39 PM

And on that note......
I have my bike sold, and ready to ship....except.........

Before I put the rear fender on, we had the control box (w/breaker and dummy lights) under the seat, on the top bolt of the battery box/oil bag hanger. Of course, the fender would not go on, so I moved it to the bottom. Now it doesn't start.
So...........
I took off my tranny mount bolts, engine bolts, and anywhere else that I thought would be a ground, cleaned them up to ensure that bare metal was hit, and replaced them. I ran one of my two negative leads from the battery to the starter bolt, and the other one to the frame under the seat, on the left side of the bike, in the holes to the left of the oil bag hangers.
I removed my spark plugs to eliminate compression, and still, she is cranking sluggish, and barely turning the engine over.
Any ideas??????

SapperLohr · #**213** (**permalink**) 05-08-2004, 12:43 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Road Pirate II
not to intrude on the conversations.....but does anyone know?????

I am sorry RP, but I don't know anyone who has done that. It is a great idea, to add to the "old school" look of a raked out rigid, though. I know that none of these guys have opted for a chain drive over the belt, though.
Sorry,
SL

elvisthecat · #**214** (**permalink**) 05-08-2004, 05:41 PM

Thanks Sapper. I got the kit from american-made. No complaints about their efforts at all. I will call them first thing Monday.

elvisthecat · #**215** (**permalink**) 05-09-2004, 05:52 AM

This forum is helping me a lot until I get a service manual. I am starting to figure out some of the assemblies. The hard part is... some parts that need to work together are not kept together. In mine, the front end pieces came in one large box - the forks, the triple trees, front axle. That is... all except for the fork STOPS which came hidden in the box of electrical components. (better to get it than not though!) Anyway, there are some directions with the fork stops that say you will have to drill and tap 4 holes on the lower tree unless the tree comes pre-drilled with the holes. My lower tree did NOT come pre-drilled, and before I drill and tap 4 holes in my tree, I just wanted to check and confirm that YES - I need to drill these holes. Also, there is a small thin sprocket-like piece that goes over the stem somewhere. Without any drawings or manuals (and since I think I can have my front end assembled today), where does this piece go?

SapperLohr · #**216** (**permalink**) 05-09-2004, 06:31 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by elvisthecat
This forum is helping me a lot until I get a service manual. I am starting to figure out some of the assemblies. The hard part is... some parts that need to work together are not kept together. In mine, the front end pieces came in one large box - the forks, the triple trees, front axle. That is... all except for the fork STOPS which came hidden in the box of electrical components. (better to get it than not though!) Anyway, there are some directions with the fork stops that say you will have to drill and tap 4 holes on the lower tree unless the tree comes pre-drilled with the holes. My lower tree did NOT come pre-drilled, and before I drill and tap 4 holes in my tree, I just wanted to check and confirm that YES - I need to drill these holes. Also, there is a small thin sprocket-like piece that goes over the stem somewhere. Without any drawings or manuals (and since I think I can have my front end assembled today), where does this piece go?

Okay, yes you do need to drill holes on the top of the lower portion of the trees. The trick is, (I learned this the hard way) to drill the holes on the same angle as the degree of the rake. In other words, I sat the plate flat down on a drill press, marked the holes using the plate, then drilled two of the holes straight down, rotated the drill head, tapped them to fit, and put my screws in. It was then that I realized that the screws would not counter-sink unless the holes were drilled on the same angle as the rake. I fixed it on the other two.
Now, on the "sprocket like piece". It goes, in this order, Lower portion of the trees, bearing cover, neck, bearing cover, "sprocket-like piece", upper portion of the trees, nut.
That is how I did mine, and how I envision the correct way---If anyone else has a different suggestion, feel free to jump in.
Hope it helps,
SL

elvisthecat · #**217** (**permalink**) 05-09-2004, 08:24 AM

Thanks Sapper. Your help is invaluable!

SapperLohr · #**218** (**permalink**) 05-09-2004, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by elvisthecat
Thanks Sapper. Your help is invaluable!

You are more than welcome. I am just doing for you what these guys have continually done for me. If you need anything else, don't hesitate to ask.

SL

elvisthecat · #**219** (**permalink**) 05-09-2004, 12:22 PM

Well it's obvious that I'm going to have to wait for my documents (I don't even have the torque data although I am only doing a dry fit now), but 2 more front end questions so that the day is not totally lost for me... where did you put the Timkin Steering Head Bearing, and regarding the angle you just mentioned... drilling angled holes makes sense to accomodate the additional rake, and I probably would have done the same thing you did had you not made mention of it, but with the extra rake, it seems like there is going to be a gap somewhere - either between the bottom of the 4-holed plate and the lower tree (which would not attach it completly to the tree) or between the top of the 4-holed plate and the fork stop (which it is designed to fit flush to). Does that make sense or do I just need to wait for the documentation? Right now, my stem does not come out of the bottom tree at a 90 degree angle (to give it the extra rake I assumed).

(it's been a long weekend. maybe I am losing it.)

elvisthecat · #**220** (**permalink**) 05-09-2004, 12:42 PM

LOL! Yes... I think the docs will help. I answered my own question above about the angles. I won't even say what it was, but suffice it to say... I now understand the top and bottom of the trees! Bear with me guys... this is a learning experience for me. Hopefully, one day I can answer the same question there.

Punisher · #**221** (**permalink**) 05-09-2004, 01:10 PM

Well it's obvious that I'm going to have to wait for my documents (I don't even have the torque data although I am only doing a dry fit now), but 2 more front end questions so that the day is not totally lost for me... where did you put the Timkin Steering Head Bearing, and regarding the angle you just mentioned... drilling angled holes makes sense to accomodate the additional rake, and I probably would have done the same thing you did had you not made mention of it, but with the extra rake, it seems like there is going to be a gap somewhere - either between the bottom of the 4-holed plate and the lower tree (which would not attach it completly to the tree) or between the top of the 4-holed plate and the fork stop (which it is designed to fit flush to). Does that make sense or do I just need to wait for the documentation? Right now, my stem does not come out of the bottom tree at a 90 degree angle (to give it the extra rake I assumed).

(it's been a long weekend. maybe I am losing it.)

Glad to hear another HCII builder is out there, welcome to the club and this thread. If you havent yet, start at the first post and work your way to the end, LOTS of helpful advice in them posts.

My kit came with 3 bearing and race sets I have not completed assembly so I can not address that question.

The fork lock base that is screwed to the top of the bottom tree will sit flush with the tree. The stem bolt should be at a 6 degree angle to the bottom tree, hence the 6degree rake of the forks. Because the stem is at 6 degrees, everything will line up flush with everything else. YES you need to drill and tap the holes for the fork stop at the 6 degrees or they will not sit right. I also kinda messed up the drilling and tapping but managed to scape by when I inlarged the counter sink holes.

Anything else, dont hesitate to ask, there are about 4 guys that have finished thier bikes in here, and a couple more working on one, and yet countless that are chomping at the bit to order, or have it delivered.

Punisher

SapperLohr · #**222** (**permalink**) 05-09-2004, 01:51 PM

Okay, my kit came with 3 bearing sets as well, but I could only find a use for two of them. I am not sure why it came with three, but it did.
I hope you understand the fork deal now. There is no gap anywhere.
I have a pretty crappy digital camera, but if you ever need for me to take a picture of how I did something, let me know, and I will be more than happy--but hurry, the bike is sold, and ships Monday.

timebomb · #**223** (**permalink**) 05-09-2004, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by elvisthecat
. I won't even say what it was, but suffice it to say... I now understand the top and bottom of the trees!

at first I thought the smooth side should "go up" too

my best advice would be to unpack everything, look at it all, orginize it, mock it, take it slow...

it'll come together. good luck

timebomb · #**224** (**permalink**) 05-09-2004, 02:08 PM

hey guys, I was talkin to a few people about this voes switch.
8 outa 10 if you got one put it on, it helps performance...

it should help eliminate ping under a heavy load

anyone?

http://www.directparts.com/static/ar...arleyvoes.html

http://www.mklsportster.com/xlvoes.htm

peek at these and come up with your own opinion and let me know what ya'all think...

Magicman · #**225** (**permalink**) 05-09-2004, 07:29 PM

I'm a firm believer that the simpler the better thus opted not to use the voes and mine runs great. For optimum performance I would say use it but I'm not looking for allout HP. I guarentee you it will go as fast as you can hang on to without it. I've ridden this thing all weekend without a hicchup or a problem. One word of advise to the guys just starting their build. Upon final assembly dont be scared to use locktight on everything except where steel bolts go into aluminum then do this put a small amount of grease on the very end of the bolt with a drop or two of blue locktight. The grease will lube the threads when you remove the bolt preventing messing up the alum. and the locktight will keep it tight till you want to break it loose. Anyone who hasn't owned a solid mount rigid before will soon find out these bike have quite a bit of vibration and keeping the hardware tight will be a nightmare without locktight and aircraft nuts. Sapher if you don't mind me asking how did you sell your bike on the puter of locally.I've had alot of interest in mine but haven't seen any cash yet. Figure for 19,500 it will go quick though.