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  #76 (permalink)  
Old 09-02-2012, 08:41 PM
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Bike Year, Make, Engine: 2011 MMW 113 cu.in Pro Street
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On the first test ride, I scraped the Forward Controls badly during low speed maneuvering. To raise the Forward Controls higher off the ground, forward control adapter plates were hand fabricated from 3/8" steel plate. A simple eMachineshop.com model was created to offset the mounting points to raise the controls. eMachineShop is great free software for basic 2.5D drawing and modelling. You could also submit the part to eMachineShop for manufacture when you are done with the design, but for basic 2.5D work, it is easy enough to do yourself.

The design was printed at 1:1 scale and the resulting template was transferred to the 3/8" steel plate. An angle grinder with 0.045" cut-off wheel made "quick" work of creating the basic shape which was further refined using and abrasive disk.























Test ride after installation was a major improvement. The controls were moved upward by about 0.7". The major limitation was interference with the exhaust on the right side.

Last edited by midnight; 09-03-2012 at 04:21 AM..
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  #77 (permalink)  
Old 09-03-2012, 04:18 AM
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Awesome work man.
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  #78 (permalink)  
Old 09-03-2012, 04:59 AM
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nice work there, that is one cool chopper
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  #79 (permalink)  
Old 09-03-2012, 05:51 PM
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Thanks - it took a whole day. I had to make both parts twice because of one screw up or another....
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  #80 (permalink)  
Old 10-06-2012, 05:10 PM
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In preparation for titling the bike, I made a license plate holder for the rear fender. The backing plate was made from fiberglass molded around the rear of the fender.




I bought a chromed frame and delicately bent it into shape.



Got the bike titled 2 weeks ago. The Raleigh DMV License and Theft Bureau will inspect bikes and cars in their parking lot between 8 and 10am. I rented a UHaul, borrowed a truck and dragged the bike down to the Avent Ferry inspection station.



The first go round the Inspector sent me packing because the frame MSO had not been notarized and signed over to me. I had to send the MSO back to MMW in california. After correction, I borrowed the truck again, rented another U-Haul trailer and headed back to the DMV. This time round things went smoothly and I got the inspection certificate right then and there.

Next step NC Safety Inspection. Tried to get this done at a Jiffy Lube on the way back from the DMV but they don't do motorcycles and referred me to a Harley dealer. Found NC Quality Inspection stations close to my home and they did the inspection. They check brakes, lights, turn signals (cause I have them - you don't need them but if you have them they must work), horn. That's it. I didn't have to change a thing - they did not care about the open primary, absence of chain guard or the state of the exhaust. Then I dragged the bike to the DMV License Plate Agency and submitted all the paperwork for titling. After paying a heavy tax bill, I walked out with a brand new license plate. Job done! From zero to titled in about 4 hours.

Dragged the bike back home, returned the trailer and went for my first legal ride. Had a real tough time removing the smile from my face...
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  #81 (permalink)  
Old 10-08-2012, 04:48 PM
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Footpegs from hell

The footpegs are way too slippery. It is difficult to enjoy the ride when you are preoccupied with keeping your feet on the footpegs.
Dipped the footpegs in PlastiDip. After 4 coatings with more than the manufacturer recommended 1/2 hour interval between coatings, they came out looking great.



On the bike:


This improves the grip a lot and improves the ride quality. In the wet, they do get more slippery but still a lot better than the chrome.

.

Last edited by midnight; 10-08-2012 at 04:53 PM..
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  #82 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2012, 04:33 AM
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Jackshaft supplied with Ultima open primary is worthless. Starter engages the ring gear maybe once every 3 or 4 times. You have to rock the bike back and forth to get the ring gear positioned for successful engagement. Not very cool. Bought a BulletPruf jackshaft - what a difference. 100% successful starter jack-shaft engagement. It would make sense for Ultima to supply this as standard - why don't they?

Failed rear master cylinder - could not hold pressure. Bought a new master cylinder and modified it to fit.

Clutch started slipping on second test ride backed off the pushrod adjuster and tightened the clutch springs down. Clutch does not appear to release
100%. The pushrod only moves out about 0.060 when the clutch is activated. I expect more. Definitly no air in the system so this may be a defect in either the hand control or clutch hydraulic piston. Works well enough to ride but I need to give this some attention soon.

Clutch lever screw vibrated loose - the locking set screw vibrated out completely. My lesson here is not to trust factory assembled parts.

Swingarm Pivot bolt started backing out. Re-torqued and it has stayed put for the last 100 miles.

Bike too low to the ground. Needed to raise the controls which improved things a lot. Adjusted
the hidden shocks to maximum height. I also scraped at least off
the right control during test rides so now that side is much better!
I would like the clearance to be at 5".

Drive belt loosened. Rear wheel was still torqued correctly. Maybe the belt
stretches a bit from new. Have adjusted the main drive belt twice now.

Transmission mounting nuts loosened and had to be re-torqued.

Rear pulley bolts needed to be re-torqued.

Battery (Braille B129) is close to it's limit. Cannot turn the motor over without
compression releases at all (Ultima 113, 1.75kW starter). With compression releases, I get one slow spin followed by faster spinning. If the motor doesn't fire within 3 start attempts (less than 3 seconds cranking each time) you are done and will need a jump start.
On the road it is ok if you get some miles in between starts. The motor fires up very easily when warm. I would go with the bigger Braille 14115 battery next time.


Kickstand came down after a bump in the road a number of times. Removed some material from the underside of the primary support bar to allow the kickstand to move up higher and tightened the bolts and set screws as much as possible to increase the friction on it's movement. It has a ballspring detent to "lock" it in position but that is useless in my opinion.


Footpegs are way too slippery. It is hard to relax when you are
trying to keep your feet in position. Dipped them in PlastiDip to
improve the grip. Works great except when it rains.

Riding position forward controls never leave me feeling 100% in
control. I may get use to this with more miles. Im 62 so reach is not a problem.

It is a good thing that I have a decent lip at the rear of my seat to stop
me sliding off. This engine pulls damn hard.

My first V-Twin feels like Im riding a jackhammer. Vibration levels are high.

The 300mm rear is not too bad. Bike handling is overall reasonable and cornering is ok (except for controls dragging if I'm too aggressive in a turn). I have enjoyed some very good rides on the winding back roads in our area. I would have no problem building another 300 based bike

Overall some teething issues but the bike is running well. Been using it to work and back this past week. No issues except for running out of gas at a stoplight yesterday....

Last edited by midnight; 12-31-2012 at 07:13 AM..
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  #83 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2012, 05:37 AM
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Are they all problems you've had recently? I haven't riden a V tiwn yet either, looking forward to confirming all this talk about the vibration.
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  #84 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2012, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussiechop View Post
Are they all problems you've had recently? I haven't riden a V tiwn yet either, looking forward to confirming all this talk about the vibration.
Yes, this is a collection of the problems since I started riding the bike after completing the build. I didn't mention things like melting my boot on the exhaust

The vibration level varies with RPM - there are 2 particular RPM ranges where on this bike even your eyeballs shake. I have one around 2000 RPM and another around 3500. At all other RPMs there is some level of vibration but not enough to affect your vision

Vibration from these motors is normal according to what I've read, and reduces a bit as the motor wears in. The motor and primary are noisy buggers but this adds to the ride experience. I should have mentioned that I do look forward to every ride on this bike - there is nothing like building and riding your own bike.
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  #85 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2012, 08:29 AM
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I have those same pegs...i completely agree on the slippery part! Great fix though midnight! Good shit
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Last edited by Tx51; 10-13-2012 at 08:33 AM..
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  #86 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2012, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
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I have those same pegs...i completely agree on the slippery part! Great fix though midnight! Good shit
Thanks, going to do the same thing to the hand grips. They are also a bit slippery even with gloves.
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  #87 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2012, 05:27 PM
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Fixed the handgrips with plastidip.

Have changed the oil twice - at 75 miles and 260 miles.

Had difficulty getting the throttle open on the way back from work some weeks back. A bear to deal with in rush hour traffic. The internal throttle has a sliding shuttle that is basically anodized aluminum sliding over on anodized aluminum. Greased it up and no problems since.

Bike sucks gas like it's free. Around 32mpg.

Take it really easy on the corners to avoid scraping. Next build will be set up higher.

The pushbuttons on the hand controls are too close together. I always hit multiple buttons with my thumb. Next build will have standard Harley switches with proper ergonomics.

Left pivot bolt started backing out. I felt the rear wheel "slip" on a corner. The swing arm had shifted. The bolt was out about 1/2". Shit - this could have been a real mess. Upped the torque on both left and right side. I do a visual every day now.

Top motor mount bolt vibrated completely out. I felt excessive vibration as opposed to just high vibration. Eventually noticed the top motor mount bolt had gone missing. It was locktited with blue. Replaced the bolt and upped the torque. Added this bolt to my daily visual.

The little braille B169 battery is alright. It has been starting the bike no problem for about 2 months. Bike starts up very quickly after adjusting the timing properly with a timing light.

Bike started misfiring. Noticed that the timing light pulse was inconsistent on the front cylinder. Changed the ignition module to the more advanced Ultima programmable. No change. Ordered a new coil and installed it. No change. Redid wiring. No change. Only thing left to do is replace the plug wires. You can hear the occasional misfire until about 2000 RPM. Over 2000 it seems ok. However, on a test run after changing the coil, the bike bogged down completely about 2 miles from home. First it went to running on one cylinder and then nothing. I pulled over. Checked as much as I could and re started the bike. Back to normal. WTF. Rode back towards home but it started feeling good so I bypassed home and went for a ride. Bike behaved all the way for about a 15 mile round trip. Makes no sense. Pissing me off.

Besides for the ignition issues, the bike gets better and better. Part of this is due to me getting used to the way the bike handles and more confidence that the bike isn't going to fall apart at the first pothole we hit. Glad I built it - love to ride it.

Last edited by midnight; 12-09-2012 at 03:48 AM..
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  #88 (permalink)  
Old 12-09-2012, 04:20 AM
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Some more teething issues. The Spyke petock failed in 2 places. In the open position, the seal rotated on the shaft blocking the fuel entry point which would starve the bike. Rode on reserve position for some weeks until I noticed a fuel leak develop in the petcock. The main bottom seal had also failed. While I like the look of this petcock, I am tossing it. Two seal failures within weeks of each other points to POS. To fix it, the bottom seal needs replacing and the main gas seal needs to be secured to the shaft with an ethanol tolerant adhesive. Whatever adhesive Spyke used obviously did not work.



Also had issues with the bike stumbling when rolling on the throttle in the 2000-3500 RPM range. Would be okay if I slowly opened the throttle but bike would stumble, splutter and backfire through carb trying to accelerate "normally". Took the carb off - fuel pump had gotten stuck in the down position. Cleaned it out and restored function to the pump. No change with the stumbling issue. Read the Mikuni manual for about the 100'th time and decided that since everything else checked out, to raise the jet needle one notch. Jeez, what a change in performance. Felt like a new bike. Problem finally solved.

I ride to work most days. Low 30's in the morning can be painfully cold especially my hands but I have some decent gloves on order.

Rear cylinder has developed an RPM dependent ticking noise which I assume means lifters or rockers. I'm also guessing that it is the rear cylinder because I can feel that the exhaust gasses miss a couple of beats every now and then unlike the front cylinder which is as regular as clockwork. Spark pulses to the cylinder are good - I bough one of those cheap neon inline indicators to check firing pulses with the bike running.
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  #89 (permalink)  
Old 12-09-2012, 06:01 AM
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Wow nice build and good luck workin out the bugs..
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  #90 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2012, 02:39 PM
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Spilt some gas on the oil gauge - the plastic lens did not withstand the spillage and cracked in a number of places. Replaced the gauge with another 60psi unit. Easy enough.



Started investigating a ticking sound from the motor. Gets worse as the engine warms up. Pulled the rear cylinder lifters and saw that the lifter bearing had been impacting the underside of the tappet block.




Tappet block is aluminum so it was easy to grind extra clearance for the Lifter. Also found some crap in the engine - who knows where this came form.


Reassembled using the ultima engine manual guidelines for adjusting the pushrods. Went for a 20 mile ride - no ticking noise. Problem solved.

.

Last edited by midnight; 12-31-2012 at 07:10 AM..
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