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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-24-2010, 08:02 PM
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Shovel Ready Log INN

I'm bored. I'm waiting for godot so here it goes. Yes, I'm easily impressed. There is a list of talent I'd give my right and left nut for, but dis is all you get. Bottom line, all I am is just a parts changer.

I have to know a bike from wheel to wheel or I will get my ass whipped by the big boys. I am not competing with the big cheeze papers because I cannot hold a candle to some of the guru guys/gals that have that eye for parts dressing.

No class here is just slap pit on and if it works, ain't my problem what it looks like. I have my deal going where it HAS TO..... It HAS 2 not twice, but, built once. I want this thing the fuck out of my gear rage. I do not want someone in rage on me; this fell off or this does not work I take on a hob knob of a job called fun with threads.

I'm all scatter brain because I know I can handle it wheel to wheel; who cares where I start; it has to be done, right? So, first odor of business is to remove said soil from a sitter called the, "Tribute 1/4 Kick-Her" to someone in the rhetorical audience/historical/Testhe Internetitty wangers ING over...

... Over a bunch of bike parts. It is that simple a build. And since it is open to the public, why is there alwiseguy some fish market I plop my password into, I watch it bounce out the door I speak bike from wheel to wheel do not screw up another bike if I can help PIT is pit withis clown you get spring rolls; Say, round-0h-round we go. Wee-wee-wear waiting for Gear-Dough'zzzzzzz out the clock nobody knows.

Carb body glows with the vinegar flow. We now begin the fish fry says the bird call. Call the ball if you are interested in the generic. I am on my own. Shop man you will see me fumble bumble the ball putting this bike together here it goes:




First odor of business is the cleaning process. Here is an S$S all gummy bare and clay the decay away is the "GumbyeYA." Slow goo-bye to the light sweet crude, how about some valve train action get it going along with the carb douche is now the old lady houze bee fighting for the same formula between her bag and I have yet to clean the oil bag. Due you see twatsweetwat I'm getting at? We are head to the head and just start cleaning up, I poured your douche of the month cleaned the carb beer rate her so rate her.

I rate her non explosive. From now on, I run a, 'Green-ear Gear-age' I want to clean, "Parts is Parts." Get ready get sin-knee-man-her UP right up the proverbial wall she still needs her thread screwed with a bottle brush you think I'm going to eat off that 1 and 1/2 out to start her quarteratchet pawl.

And because I am way too over the whackey douche selection I begin to take the process further in the thinktank; if you ever saw one spiderwire is call it a fishing EX-Pee Addition I can't spelz it out, nor count it out is count on working on your own bike you do not want me near yours. Acid bath is my middle finger I pack my douche machine all nice an clean. Look at her. Dose she look clean to you that dirty leg!

After, I get a hole in hers... I had to find a sealerection of brushes for her vaginal wall she wants a 1/4 kick out of bed I came too fast pounding her potatoes.


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Old 11-24-2010, 08:10 PM
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looks clean to me. There's an adjustable jet kit you can get for that and it makes a big difference in tuning it. It fits where the bottom plug goes.
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Old 11-26-2010, 04:00 AM
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Red, thanks for that tidbit of info. I have a bunch of photos and I could use them as reference or just pound out the circuits here. I've already whacked the MeGuyVeer air cleaner for the main jet cleaning. The air intake for the low/choke/mechanical accel pump works on it's own. I had a theory and S&S proved that theory to me in the absolute.

I had a bike once that was hard to start. I had a friend who's bike was running rich. Between the carb and computer bike, both acted in the opposite and it drives me insane I am in a search for answers and I have to keep both carb and injector in perspective or someone get the white coats for me....... I'm ready.






There are a lot of circuits to learn and I've found just about every one I think. This is a very impressive unit. Impressive marketing if you cannot replace a float? Might as well buy a new carb if they won't sell you a "complete rebuild kit" and it's minus a float? But they give you the pin in the kit?

That means an oval float hole. That means a new pin is half-azz'd and where is half the wobble out of the precision pin to new holes in the float? They more rock side to side on the elongation of the float's eyes. The X to Y is pretty much yank a float out of the company who wants a new carb if it was just a float and pin that cleared the flooding/rich running.
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Old 11-26-2010, 09:06 AM
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Here is a selection of jet cleaners I used to clean what pencil dick didn't show you.
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Old 11-27-2010, 02:47 AM
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Here is your main 1atmo hole. To maintain the neutral 14.7psi above the gas level, we need every hole clear and breathing or we run; OUT OF FUEL. SLOWLY RUN RICH THEN STOP FLOW OF FUEL = VACUUM LOCK

The main 1atmo hole also feeds the low speed channel. This should not be clogged or it will run rich, rather than atomize with air. Find an clean these drilled relief holes, feeding the low speed air holes. This hole can now flow into the upper main body for the idle circuit and the blend-holes behind the throttle plate.


This tube has atomizer holes for the choke system. The low speed jet also has the atomizer holes and also use the air hole to cause the bubbles to break up; what would otherwise be-a solid line of fuel out of the choke and low speed jet holes. Again, if we have the atomizers closed off; RICH CONDITION WILL OCCUR.

There are two holes down in the float bowl. You can see the one exposed hole near the float level drop. These feed fuel to the drop-down-into jet towers. Two things can occur. If the float is low, the atomizers will suck air and very little fuel; The next would be hard starting to poor idle or no idle; LEAN CONDITION.

The carb looks fairly new or at least has low mileage to it. I am going to guess the float is near original float height. We are looking at 6 millimeters from edge of bowl to the edge of the float.
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Old 11-27-2010, 04:39 AM
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You crack me the fuck up hubby. Good shit though.
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Old 11-27-2010, 10:49 AM
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man thats some funny shit but like rick said good shit !
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Old 11-27-2010, 11:07 PM
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Thanks guys- Appreciate it ~ More Than You Think!

I'll run through the choke-low-blend channels. Here is where choke dumps out. choke is atomized and does not dump out fuel per say. But say fuel dumps out, this can cause a few problems which I will mention near the end.

Check the 4-doors. When the guillotine is closed, we are sucking on 5 holes. Though we see the 4 holes here, we now count the main as an idle feed and look out [if] the choke is a partial feed, I do not know at this point. R&D kind of meguyveer can point out a few things. Things like free access to a dyno but no engine for any $&$ R&D experiments. Oh well.

The choke could not be moved. It took the vinny soaking and then more chemicals to clean her completely out down the slide shaft hole. Choke is shown in the pulled up [choke on] and held by a simple twist 90 from the slot; so the tiny long tube can now draw gas up the tube. The holes tumble gas and can create it's own bubbling helper, being submerged in the fuel bowl. So really, the emulsion tubes holes used to atomize the choke tower are there so as not to flood the engine as if pulling on a soaker gun and see that stream of fuel; thinking you need that much gas to run and/or choke the engine. Had that material been used like copper or brass and the gas sitting that long to etch the jet surface? Imagine if they used that [material] and man, it would leak the first kick out the heel. She has a stainless steel plunger and not to worry-YET!

What would you call it? Service plug? No. Blank for drilling? Probably. Yeah, so here are the drilling plugs all over the carb body. The best part was to wait to see if the vinnydouche would clear the blend holes and sure enough, she sprays perfectly clean thru and through. There was no need to drill and pull the plug to clean the blenders. These are right behind the guillotine and if you think about it, you are trying to sustain speed just off the crack of the throttle. Rolling back and forth over these, the low and the main, you are just smooth city without a pumper. Wink-wink-Less moving parts!

Here we are with the body itself. Very dangerous you buy used with a body needing precision tapers. Though the stainless plunger is salvage, we have a rot around the taper we have [a leak] we cannot lean out we chasing our tail for a clean plug read. So, that body taper right there at the choke is one poor tuning snaffoo. One mileage per tank full in the snaffoofoo. The money out of pocket between Hank-the-crank on his equipment is money out the window.

The topping on the cake is how you walk away from your carb kit, because your body is taper-less. Say the guy wants top dollar and you have no clue about his turn-in ~ then ~ turn-out so many turns to tune the low speed "T". You pull that out and your finger can drop in the groove that was a flat [long] taper at one time... Geeeeeee HAaaa! I think I need to walk away from the carb body being so critical right at those areas; that have no rebuilding way, unless they sell the drills and now go build your own carb.


I can show you that guy that survived being sucked into that jet intake on an aircraft carrier. Someone has to tell me about the bike at idle and now you tell me the main is not part of idle with it's own circuit. Then, place said hand over carb at idle. See if you do not think main is not being sucked out if that hand is being sucked in.

Meguyveer is on the move. I'm the instrument player and I cannot keep a beat to save my life. So, I am no tuner. I leave that to the big boys. I'm going to take my man-o-meter off the VOES bleed, have my hot engine or maybe try it cold, who knows? WOThe man-0 will do is to watch me find the highest water mark I run the merc stick off that suck and now listen plus watch it smooth out.

Have I tried it? No, not on a carb bike. FI, I am all over that puppy. I figure this should apply the same avenue of the sucker. And now call you a sucker you follow my lead I never tired it and who's fault was that you are on your own R&D to blow up or hurt a skirt? Did you waste engine and now blame me I log one in the toilet you have Die Ha Wee-HA!?? << There's no crying in baseball you R&BOOM!
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Old 12-01-2010, 01:56 PM
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I'm in the process of cleaning a total of 5 carbs. 6 if I need the one that needs no work. I have 4 carbs now to choose from. I'm swapping parts between who is brittle and cracked, to who is supple and plunge-able. Like I said, with chop, you are in all directions and I have to get cracking on the head today. The top covers need to be reassembled. The cylinders need another coat. The trans needs work. The crank is waiting. The wire harness happens when the frame comes back from paint/powder, who knows?


You want MeGuyVeer? I'll show you the integrity of said rivet gun is hold this and let me hammer and almost hatrick had it. (((FAIL!))) Oh, but it's goodshit, Mrs. Cresskey; Banged on her nipples. Now the idea is to shave that ball flat, my rivet face would look less fill in the blank. Now the idea comes.


And now for gear is me-mesh. I need to bring the box down knowing we have a box without her ever being torn down... Sans the cover. virginsweetittyboxhershorts. Whomever was the last to swing a box-end on her last, I can see two gear nicks, one on each gear. This is how I'll tear down the trans. I'll pull the top cover and see how much I can green-tag back together.

Figured as much about someone tearing down baby. Not in my pit or out you go! We have a mesh going or a wear pattern and that needs to be obtained or she takes on a new noise, new vibration-wear we go waaaa-waaa on the rear chain drive you just throw it off, swap tire and off you go, yes, ringing car alarms and the kids at the park waving you over so they can use your chain for a jump rope, theirs breaks.
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Old 12-01-2010, 02:23 PM
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just keep singin "on the road again"
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Old 12-01-2010, 09:06 PM
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"Excuse me Stuartess, I speak jive" is what comes to mind. I think I am starting to understand your lingo man
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Old 12-01-2010, 09:26 PM
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On that clutch hub, I assume you gonna run the 5 disc clutch with heavy springs, weld the backs on the threaded studs or they will pull out and get rid of that caged bearing, go with a full roller bearing kit.
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Old 12-01-2010, 09:28 PM
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AND > get flh discs not fl. The flh's have spring balls on the ends.
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Old 12-01-2010, 09:33 PM
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what are you soaking the heads in? be careful remember its aluminum. Some cleaners will eat that shit like candy.
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Old 12-02-2010, 07:44 AM
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Thanks, Red. I checked the studs. They look fine. Good call on the weak link. At the time, I rebuilt that 3 stud clutch center. I think I'll rivet up the 5 stud and follow your lead.

where do I find this bearing kit? And when the guy bought a used belt drive, yes, the basket was filled with the rivet steel type roller tipped plates you are talking about. The basket is a Rivera if that makes any difference.

Hang in there, Loffer.
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