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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 01-25-2011, 09:01 PM
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I learned the hard way to buy extra tootsies, the used ones taste nasty with oil on them
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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 01-31-2011, 08:55 AM
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I can tell you I have zip for tools. The tootsie is not a real number. The reality is that I ordered a .003" over and now that one exhaust guide hole is pretty torn up. The intakes are nice and clean and the way I've been feeling depth entering holes with a number of guide sizes held in hand, I am back to feeling holes blind. Setting points by eye. Feeling valve lash without a feeler you can get away with a lot of hand holding.

I'm throwing guide in both ends of the head. I've come to conclude that if I keep cleaning this one galled hole for more grip, the .004" will interfere just about perfect we gall her going back in. Either way, the gall is on like donkeyKong.

What I did was stop at the guide work until parts arrive in a few days. This gave me time to clean up the heads some. You can see some blow-by happening toward the exhaust side on the left head (pictured). The last guy who tooled this engine was not using a torque wrench but a breaker bar for a torque wrench.





Here, I salvaged a broken fuel inlet off a rebuilt carb. I needed the rubber accelerator diaphragm, the bowl gasket, and the replaceable fuel inlet now in full brass, not half plastic bossed over onto the brass inlet side. Now that the feed side is brass, the yank integrity has the better option nothing is going to snap off.

What I've found out over the years about removing things is to drill all the way through and have a thin wall on one side, you collapse or implode the threads/wall/etc., so she shrinks is the trick out.







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Last edited by cntrhub; 01-31-2011 at 08:58 AM..
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 02-04-2011, 03:51 PM
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Here, I'm trying to find ideas as to how to flip 2 heads 4 ways. The block is looking sloppy all drilled and pegged with chunks taken out for the rise of the exhaust port. However beat up it looks, it works as per X to Y was my concern.

I've polished out the rockers as much as I could for the new valve tips. The rocker tops are assembled and done. All that is left is waiting for one guide that did not show today. So, what was promised Wed is now Friday. The wait continues.

Meanwhile, I have the clutch and belt on. I'll have the push rod arm all setup for a new cable to handle bar length. He bought a new set of bars and they too are 'in the mail' as we wait on others dropping the ball and you have to have all your parts in play or you'll miss something as in, made too short.

It's pretty much going along as scheduled even with the delays. Took a month if not to the day, give or take... What works in a shovel and does not. Then, he bought the wrong master cylinder. I'd have to grind the peg housing, but that won't happen. It has been an interesting process so far.
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  #64 (permalink)  
Old 02-08-2011, 03:38 PM
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As you can see by the spec sheet, we need between .004 and .002" of interference fit. Needless to say the .004" over-sized guide came but check some things out here. Notice [lower photo], where the exhaust side is still too deep. They tore up that guide hole so bad, I could see there was a lot of carbon on the guide to head hole.

In other words, it was pretty chewed up and they did not seem to dress the holes for an 004". I think I've played with the holes finishes, the old guides, the new guides and how things seem to cross-fit. I sat on that fit for the night, where I had to order the next size up and forgo the .004" being it would be OK. I feared the sheering on the install so as to become loose if used. As the others three seemed to be sitting higher, I decided how close can I get the next size to sit that high, aim for at least for .00355555". I would feel more confident if that one would not move when the head is a it's running clearance.

If I had a snap ring gauge for that small a hole, I wouldn't waste so much money on reshipping each part out. It costs almost as much to ship the part back as it cost. So you eat that part and more time. Then again, this way is a lot cheaper than a one time tool. You are not even a 1/3rd of the price there yet. So it kind of works out if you look at the tool savings that way. The job is still done with that little candy wrapper slapper at the top of the head...

... I coulda had a V-8. Either way, this has been a learning curve of an experience. The engine should be pretty much roll-able for the final bung hanging party it needs by next week. Yeah... If the pipes make it by then.
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  #65 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2011, 05:30 PM
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w17rtiGSyyw

That one exhaust guide hole that was torn up, took an .006" guide and sent itself straight in the hole. Rightly so did each one seem to be sent home without a hitch. I more gave an eyesight to the pilot centering in the hole and then took a haphazard visual down each side.

There are 2 more processes to accomplish. One is to ream the guides to size. The final step is to cut the 45 with the stone cutter and pilot guide. I'll have to make a better setup at the drill press and some sort of cutting oil feed, as I make one pass down that hole.

I'm still waiting for pipes and bars. So, this should take no more than a few hours to finish off practically everything. I'm going to soak it for days on end though. I'm thinking of making a more precision, reamer chuck than the guide block. Back to the drawing board.

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  #66 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2011, 01:34 PM
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Here is my $220 reamer loophole. The finished reamer is .002" oversize'd. I can buy a $50 reamer without the added .002" and polish out a smaller number. I'm within spec, but if I ever do a head again, I'll approach the finishing a little more closer to tight spec. Are the holes consistent? No. But, this was more a test and go, not test and now dial it in a lot better.

With that said, I'm now about to cut my 3 angles to complete the head. Right now as it stands, it was $460 plus parts, give or take 20 bucks. My side paid 140 for parts, 50 each for reamer and stone guide pilot. So, 110 dollars give or take and now say he can sell the tools @ 50 for both... for argument sake. His theoretical parts/labor number is down to $190 to do the head.

I am at a stopping point until the frame comes back for bung work, namely for pipes and other assorted hanger areas. Hang some mids. Hang exhaust brackets. A better side stand stopper. Clutch mount bracket and something else?
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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2011, 01:03 PM
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Shovelicious front end that gapisscoop.wmv - YouTube

Hey Werks, this one is for you in the beginning. I got your air gap! LOL! JK... I wonder if those is clowntown characters on TV are in the setup category is eye for detail my ride? Eyes gots the universal detailed front end is set the fork as deep up the legs you want. Here comes the X to Y it works dis way. Uppa yo ass ha dis way I gotta measure from the top and match day other side and screw how is it my wheel is so hard to get on? Could it be my axle to find the hole much?
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  #68 (permalink)  
Old 11-07-2011, 08:14 PM
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Hey RedWings, I noticed your comment on the tube. Yes indeed, we are back at it. Had the owner come over tonight, address a few issues, resolve a few problems. It's not my bike or I'd continue along. Guy is 50 miles away so it's just time consuming on his part. I'm a few minutes on the bike it seems and I have to stop, call the guy. Hey buddy, your parts; You bought this part, had the welder make a bracket, you go paint the frame and now you bring a new set of pipes?

Fine by me. I get to go back on line and torment the forums I'm on. Hee-hee-hee!
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  #69 (permalink)  
Old 04-25-2012, 01:49 AM
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Finished product.

Next Quickie...

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  #70 (permalink)  
Old 04-25-2012, 03:14 AM
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nice stuff....
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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 04-25-2012, 04:13 AM
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Looking good! I hope I don't have to go into my nephew's that deep though!!
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