Quote:
Originally Posted by M3XB12RDAKOTA
I don't understand the first 2 =).
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I'm going to walk up to any engine, be it car, lawnmower or a formula one car, I am going to watch the valve open on the carb side, or the intake side. We know the exhaust pipe is the exhaust side.
We are looking for 2 out of 4 strokes to a 4 stroke engine. This compression stroke is our final stroke for timing purposes. Therefore, we need to take a flashlight into the spark plug hole of the front cylinder. We want to watch that intake side or the intake valve go down into the light and try to catch that opening with the flashlight.
We then see that the intake did open. There is no place for that valve to go is to move back up the head where it started. We now come around to the timing plug. We want to watch that mark come into the window.
We find a chopstick, send it down the spark plug hole, then turn the crank forward. We use a wooden tool so you do not collapse the spark plug threads, the angle of the dangle is going to cock the chopstick coming up. You'll kiss the threads if the crank moves too fast.
We use the chopstick so the piston comes up to the top. This is now on the 'compression stroke,' better known as TDC. It says for top dead center, the piston can go no farther up. That is our fully compressed [position] is that 2nd stroke.
We need to follow the intake valve or we could be on the rear cylinder kind of confusin. However, following the front cylinder's [intake] valve opening and closing, shows you are going to see the compression stroke come up next.
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That is how you found the line in the window or dot = TDC-compression. The timing cup is next. That indent at the cup and the machine cut at the cam is just X the X in the square, this is not rocket science you line up notch for notch.
Then, center the timing plate in their adjusting slots. This then is where you move the timing plate to turn the light off. Recheck is to move the crank back, watch the light go on, you move the line in the window to its center.
Kill two birds that way.
Either way you look at it, you are lining up a trailing edge to a leading edge of this hall effect game. that cup's open window, or the edge of the window, is timed to that stationary magnetic behind the slotted timing plate. Thus, your leading/trailing edges you are lining up to blink all these lights going on and off.
The final check is to cover a timing light with clear wrap. Cover your hand with clear rap like a gauntlet over your arm and timing light. That timing window is going to spray an
oil mist out of it. This is where you rev the engine up, look in that window [someplace outside the garage] so you can see if that timing is dead on or the timing plate needs to be moved again?
To find full advance, you blip the throttle past 2,000 rpm or more. 2,500 rpm is pushing it, seeing that the advanced is locked at 2K and it is a waste to keep revving a stationary engine without air blowing over it. So, you start with a cold engine. The short low rpm blips will not harm anything as you have to start it, pick the timing light up, adjust your eyes for the mist will pepper your face with the mist too.
Do it fast if you can is to check the timing mark's line position.
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