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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 02-05-2015, 10:51 AM
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Current is always pulled through the source never pushed. source is your battery . Example if you hook your starter to the battery directly then that starter will turn over pulling high current , from negative (frame ground) to positive pole of your battery. (electron flow) , pulling
75 amps, some cars 125 amps etc. If you hook an ignition circuit or anything example a light bulb, to that same hot wire and direct it through a smaller wire to ground. , it will pull 0 current until you activate that bulb (switch) and then the bulb will pull one amp. now your battery is pulling 76 amps , hook another bulb through a smaller wire, to ground and now your battery is pulling 77 amps. you want to protect each circuit individually in case you short to ground that you don't burn up you wiring harness or catch on fire. try to keep this concept in mind when you wire the bike. The starter is not fused. Some Harley' don't even fuse the wire that comes from the regulator back to the battery. Just your ignition circuit, your lights circuit etc, and then hook them all to fuses and then one wire, not the starter wire, a smaller wire back to the battery.
Does this make sense? in the mean while I'll try to decipher what you have already and see if you might need to change anything.
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2004 Ultima 127 Chopper
1975 Harley Davidson Shovel head Chopper
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Last edited by Shovel52; 02-05-2015 at 02:58 PM..
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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 02-05-2015, 11:06 AM
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by the way you have 3 wires on the voltage regulator. the two outside wires hook to the stator, and it doesn't matter if you cross them because that is ac current , And you have one wire that goes back to the battery rectified to dc current, being pulled back to to battery to charge it., fusing it is a good idea.
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2004 Ultima 127 Chopper
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Last edited by Shovel52; 02-05-2015 at 11:18 AM..
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 02-05-2015, 11:57 AM
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Shovel, thanks a ton for your quick and helpful replies! your explanation above definitely improves my understanding of how this all works.
and yea, i wasn't so clear before on the voltage regulator. the wire show in the picture (connecting to 30A breaker) is the rectified DC.

trying to simplify my ignition circuit description. (from memory):


i'm at work now. when i get home i'll try and get a readable picture of my diagram i made by looking at the manual and what i was doing at the time.

and yea, after looking at this and reading your comments again, the power from the voltage regulator is not fused before the key at all since it's not going through the 30A circuit breaker. but i'm pretty sure this is what the buell manual had (i will try and take a photo of that too).

thanks again for all your help.

Last edited by bondo167; 06-19-2015 at 05:49 AM..
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  #64 (permalink)  
Old 02-05-2015, 01:26 PM
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Not sure about your diagram. the rectified dc from regulator to the battery is the only connection to the battery and it is a return to charge the battery. the other two wires on the regulator go to the stator
which is self supporting a.c. source using rotating magnets. so there are 3 wires on the regulator, the two outside wires go to the stator and middle wire back to the battery.

your other diagram would be correct if you showed the key coming directly off of the battery. Do all your other circuits like your lights etc. like you have your iginition circuit...By the way your diagram does not show a ground either.....if anything is different on your buell schematic I would sure like to see it!
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Last edited by Shovel52; 02-05-2015 at 01:40 PM..
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  #65 (permalink)  
Old 02-05-2015, 02:55 PM
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Again the wire with the 30 amp breaker should be the main wire back to the battery from the fuse box . That does not mean the regulator wire. the one from the fuse box . The regulator and stator circuit pulls about 20 amps so just make sure you use heavy wire and about a 25 amp fuse.
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Last edited by Shovel52; 02-06-2015 at 03:30 PM..
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  #66 (permalink)  
Old 02-05-2015, 07:03 PM
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This should do it, sorry so sloppy!

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Last edited by Shovel52; 02-06-2015 at 10:38 AM..
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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 02-05-2015, 07:27 PM
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yea, i was trying to whip that diagram up quick. so i neglected to complete the circuits. i was also trying to make it super-simplified so i didn't show things like the stator, etc.

here's the best picture i can get of the wiring diagram i made. but i doubt you can see anything. i can if i zoom on the full-res on my computer . . . but still difficult. and i cut off the tailight/rear turn signal section to get a little closer.


here's a shot of the full diagram in the book (complete with relays, diodes, kill switch, etc):

(not sure if me posting this is even legal? )

here's just the ignition diagram:


here i erased in MS paint everything i'm not including. the only thing i've changed on this is shown in red. instead of going through an ignition relay, i have straight from ignition fuse to splice for coil and ign mod.


List of things on stock that i'm not including:
-ignition relay (wasn't there before i tore down)
-starter relay (have a solenoid push-button start)
-start button on bars
-diodes by relays
-kill switch (from what i can tell, this just interupts the circuit, not grounding out the coil - unless that's done in the ign mod? so the key should be able to do the same thing)
-clutch switch
-neutral switch
-sidestand switch
-neutral indicator light

Last edited by bondo167; 06-19-2015 at 05:51 AM..
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  #68 (permalink)  
Old 02-05-2015, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shovel52 View Post
This should do it, sorry so sloppy!

thanks! didn't see this before i posted my last post. (think we were typing at the same time).

i'm a little confused on the ign mod and coil: you show a hot coming out each side. so are those connected back to hot side of battery (through a fuse)?

laptop dying, so can't spend longer analyzing. . .

thanks again for all the help!
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  #69 (permalink)  
Old 02-05-2015, 07:47 PM
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yes ,each hot wire shown only means that you are using one single hot wire from your battery, and through the same fuse. each circuit would use a different hot wire and different fuse.............................Caution you need to double check your coil and check your schematic for proper wiring, some are different from others, tachometer sender and such.
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Last edited by Shovel52; 02-05-2015 at 08:18 PM..
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  #70 (permalink)  
Old 02-06-2015, 10:34 AM
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Well I wasn't thinking when i was talking about fusing the ground wire, since this is dc.. not ac. you would have to fuse only hot, since electrons are going to flow back toward the battery positive pole, fusing at ground is not going to protect anything, thats only in an a.c circuit on the neutral wire , , sorry
surprised no one commented on that!
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Last edited by Shovel52; 02-06-2015 at 10:40 AM..
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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 02-06-2015, 11:22 AM
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haha. i certainly didn't realize you made a mistake
i appreciate all the help you've given. i'm gonna print that out and go through what i've got with a fine tooth comb this weekend.
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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 02-06-2015, 03:18 PM
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maybe this is better!
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2004 Ultima 127 Chopper
1975 Harley Davidson Shovel head Chopper
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Last edited by Shovel52; 02-07-2015 at 07:15 AM..
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  #73 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2015, 07:13 AM
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This is what happens when I wake up in the middle of the night!

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Last edited by Shovel52; 02-08-2015 at 03:52 PM..
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  #74 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2015, 06:56 PM
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Looking back at this page here. Talking about your ignition relay. The ignition relay is there to take the stress off of your ignition switch so you don't burn it up. The same with a starter relay, it takes stress off of your starter button. You don't need the ignition relay if your key switch will
take say... 20 amps. That's 2 amps per 1000 rpm remember? 5000 rpm redline ...thats 10 amps draw from ignition circuit, your not going to be doing that I hope!
and then your lights pull another 10 amps. (You could use a toggle switch for lights). I use all L.E.D'S on my bike ...2 amps max current draw on lights. just find you a heavy duty key switch and you'll be ok. and check it to see if it gets warm. Be nice to your stator circuit use l.e.d's. those stators will fry!
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Last edited by Shovel52; 02-07-2015 at 07:44 PM..
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  #75 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2015, 04:33 AM
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Thanks Shovel.
i think i've got it all set now, though i may look into LED headlight. though mine is 60W/55W so i believe it will only draw 5A on highbeam (60W/12V=5A right?)
i will also see if i can find the specs on my key switch.
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