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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 11-27-2012, 05:10 AM
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I like what you did to your frame.... Working on mine too, except stripping off the powdercoating...
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 11-27-2012, 04:24 PM
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Any more pics? Bike is coming together great!
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2012, 12:05 AM
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Hey did you powder coat your screws or did you buy them like that I'd like some black and gold ones any help on where I can find them or make them?
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2012, 03:47 PM
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Nice colors..
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 01-17-2013, 06:14 PM
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Waiting patiently to see some progress. It's been since thanksgiving , I'm excited to see the outcome because I love mutants and the colors on this bike are awesome. Can't wait to see what you come up with for the tins
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 06-24-2014, 10:09 AM
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Hi All,

it's been years since i've posted but believe it or not i am actually still working on this project. Life has gotten in the way the past couple of years for me with many changes and major projects. But i think i can devote some more of the much needed time to this bike again.
I apologize to those who asked questions that i never answered, i will try to answer them now (though it is probably useless 2 years later):


Quote:
Originally Posted by Onthisone View Post
Hey did you powder coat your screws or did you buy them like that I'd like some black and gold ones any help on where I can find them or make them?
I did PC the gold bolts and some of the black. I would not recommend that because as soon as i tighten them up with a hex key the coating gets damaged. the screws are made to fit a hex key tightly and there isn't enough slop in that fit to allow for the PC (especially a coat of gold and clear over that). I have since stripped and polished these bolts instead.
i would recommend finding black zinc plated screws in the size you need for black, and i have no ideas for gold.

Onthisone Looking real nice I'd like to do this to my engine, if ou could inbox me some tricks of the trade that would be great! I'm new to this so be easy. I have the engine out the bike right now but I'm scared to Clean it I stated using engine degreaser and stop because a new friend said that stuff will eat at your seals so he said use simple green so I'm trying that. Any help for clean up would be great thanks in advance.

yes i use simple green as a de-greaser before PCing my parts. but i didn't do the engine cylinders or case. they were already painted in black high temp before i bought the bike so i left them to save the trouble of disassembling the entire motor. if you want to PC the engine you're going to have to disassemble all the seals anyway.


Ok, lastly here's some progress:

1. Did most of my front end including fork sliders, triples and handlebars.
2. Because i can't coat the fork tubes and so cannot eliminate all chrome/silver finish from the bike i have abandoned that mission and have polished most bolts. i still plan on not having a lot of chrome, just nuts and bolts, but cannot decide on the headlight now. this decision on the chrome has made my life much easier.
3. PC'd my calipers in the metallic gold. with the rocker boxes, these may be the only big gold pieces on the bike. we'll see.
4. Did my front rim in satin black. took me forever as i used a powder primer that is supposed to be easy sanding to fill in the tiny surface holes from the cast rim. it was not easy sanding and took ~ 16 hours of hand sanding. i will not be priming my rear rim.

let me know what you think.




Last edited by bondo167; 06-19-2015 at 05:29 AM..
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2014, 09:49 AM
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it's a roller


got the rear rim, pulley, and caliper mounts all coated satin black. mounted the tires and got the wheels on the bike.
still need to make a spacer for the rear caliper to fit between the frame mount and the caliper mount. anyone else ever have any issues on a mutant rear caliper not lining up?
when i bought the bike it just had a bunch of washers stacked on the screw. it looks like they are off about a half inch.

Last edited by bondo167; 06-19-2015 at 05:31 AM..
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 07-06-2014, 08:03 AM
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Nice bike. Im building a 04 softmount buell.Im also at the wiring stage. I used a diagram i downloaded on my first buell build off of torkypig.com . It was a 96 s 1 lightning. Very easy to do .
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2014, 06:56 AM
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thanks captainamerica. i had the wiring figured out a couple years ago, based on some simplified diagrams like that and on the stock diagram from the manual (which is pretty complex and confusing). i wired everything i could before putting the motor in, and i think it took some notes somewhere. but the rest of the stuff (headlight, turn signals etc) has to wait until i finish those parts and put them on the bike. so we'll see if i can figure it out again, 2 years later.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2014, 07:06 AM
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so an update on progress, i've ran into a major problem on this bike. i have been noticing some oil on the bottom of the crank for a little while, which is weird since i drained all of the oil (except whatever was left at the bottom of the sump or in the pump). so i decided to pull my cam cover off to take a look under there and also because i wanted to re-do my oil lines. think i'm going to go with SS braid instead of the plain black.
anyway, when i pulled the cam cover (after removing rocker boxes, push rods, tappets, and having all the f'n cams come out when i pulled the cover anyway) i found this:


as you can see, my case is cracked around that 1 bolt hole by the oil pump. so, being impulsive and frustrated i did what any idiot would do: got out the JB weld. let it cure, and threaded it the next day.


of course as i'm lying in bed the night after putting the JB weld in there, i was worried that it really isn't the right way to fix it. searched online and found multiple stories of people saying the JB weld will crumble once warm and will not hold. so now all i can picture is epoxy and metal particles swimming around my engine. :-/

so i've called a friend of a friend who is skilled in tig welding aluminum. waiting for him to get back to me. i hope that he can weld it without taking the motor out of the frame (and apart). if not, i will either pull the whole motor out and then disassemble to get the case out and then powder coat all the pieces, or i will leave the JB weld and pray.

anyone ever do something similar with JB weld and have success? failure?

thanks.

Last edited by bondo167; 06-19-2015 at 05:34 AM..
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 07-14-2014, 09:20 AM
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So i buttoned up the motor while i wait to hear back from the welder. it'll suck to have to tear it down again once he's available to take a look but i didn't want to get a bunch of stuff (dirt, etc) in it while it was open.
and i wanted to make progress on other things while i waited.

so i've PC'd most of my foot controls. i'm going to be turning my own pegs so those aren't on yet.

shift side:

(not mounted because i have to take the primary cover off to re-install the starter that i removed for cleaning, and it gets in the way).

brake side:


I also started running new SS braid oil lines. you can see them in the brake side picture above. these are a pain in the *ss. I don't remember where i had the old lines going since the things been disassembled for 2 years so i mocked up some spots to run them and found the perfect routing only to put the battery in to check interference and can't put the lines there. anyone have any advice on this? i've been looking through some other mutant pictures and might have an idea where they may have to be.

Major items left on this build:
-Final repair of my damaged crankcase
-buying/fabricating metal front fender (so i can PC it)
-PC'ing tins
-Fabricating pegs
-Fabricating grips
-Fabricating hand control switch housings
-Fabricating gas cap
-Fabricating rear turn signals
-Final wiring and wiring clean up (have an ugly rats nest under my seat)
-Re-doing the seat

Last edited by bondo167; 06-19-2015 at 05:35 AM..
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2014, 05:49 PM
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progress slowing down some. life getting in the way again. doing the math and looks like i'm not going to get it on the road this summer so probably going to give myself more time to get it ready for next year.
here's a shot with the new tank from Redneck and the pipes just placed in the general location. plan on painting the pipes black.


also re-made my brake lever arm. i dragged it before the tear down and it was pretty worn so i made a new one with my manual mill, band saw, jig saw, belt sander, and a lot of good ol' fashioned elbow grease.

step 1, band saw:


step 2, sanding and drill:


step 3, drill and jig saw the middle cutout:


step 4, mill the mount holes, tap center hole:


step 5, powdercoat:


step 6, mount:

Last edited by bondo167; 06-19-2015 at 05:38 AM..
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 08-24-2014, 05:50 AM
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Keep the pics coming. Looks great man. Love seeing builds with hand fabbed parts.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 09-01-2014, 06:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northside W&M View Post
Keep the pics coming. Looks great man. Love seeing builds with hand fabbed parts.
Thanks! I plan to do a few more.
And I appreciate the positive feedback.
I took a couple weeks off, was getting a little burnt out and had some house things to take care of that I was neglecting working on this.

But now I'm currently working on my oil tank. It'll be the first of the tins to get PC'd. Ill post some pics, but the coat of PC i just put on tonight came out like sh*t so I have to re-do it.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 09-02-2014, 03:50 PM
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Having welded on & up on HD cases & heads I will tell you that your first course of action should be to clean every bit of oil off the area to be repaired. Use a stainless brush & MEK or Acetone to clean it.

It doesn't look like a bad repair but it is in the frame. Remember aluminum melts around 700 degrees. I he has a conventional tig like me (Lincoln 275 Precision TIG) he'll probably also have to give the area a little fire heat. If he has a new inverter machine it's a bit easier.

I've seen JB work & I've seen it fail. It'd suck if you get it back together & it shits the bed.

Good luck my friend.

PACO
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