Black Cloud

[tobor]

the 1in inner primary spacer lookes like crap!!



i cleaned it up a bit with a wire wheel..

[Phantom]

Do you have a buffing wheel?
If you do, hit it with the green compound and then the white alternating back and forth until she looks like chrome.
You can also take it to a chromer/polisher.

[tobor]

good idea...

I dont have a buffing wheel right now but after mock up and while getting painted I'll get one and do that...

thnx

[Phantom]

You will find stuff all over the bike that you can use the buffing machine on.
Also, how did you purchase the kit directly from Mid-West if you are not a dealer?

[Punisher]

Originally posted by Phantom
Personally, I would have mocked it up before I put any paint or epoxy on the frame. I guess it doesn't matter since you shot it yourself except now you need to clean out every thread and what not.
1. Inventory everything. I know you are excited to get started but you should take a running inventory so you can establish what is missing, back ordered, etc.
2. Divide everything up into groups that make sense to you. For example: Drivetrain components, lines and wiring, controls and brakes, etc.
3. Use tons of "anti-seize" during the dry fit. I like the silver paste that you get from the autoparts store but everyone is different.
4. Think! The difference between a scratched component and a perfect install may only be 5 seconds of additional thinking.
5. Anything that you are not sure of, ASK. Do not allow pride and embarassment hinder you from asking advice even on the most trivial stuff.
6. Make changes. For example, I would swap to using an internal stopping system instead of that external set-up. It just involves an internal stop neck cup system, a drill, a tap, and some 10-24 tapered screws.

Ok, I will stop talking now. Good luck!!

Phantom Dont stop now!!!! You are right on with the advice..

Punisher

[Phantom]

Originally posted by Punisher
Phantom Dont stop now!!!! You are right on with the advice..

Punisher

I never know if you are being a smart ass or being serious?

[tobor]

Originally posted by Phantom
You will find stuff all over the bike that you can use the buffing machine on.
Also, how did you purchase the kit directly from Mid-West if you are not a dealer?

I did'nt buy it directly form Midwest.
IBought it from E&M in St. Louis.

I guess when you wire the cash it goes directly to MW then E&M gets there cut.

As far as changing the stops,I already had the cups drove in when you made the suggestion

[Phantom]

Originally posted by tobor
I did'nt buy it directly form Midwest.
IBought it from E&M in St. Louis.

I guess when you wire the cash it goes directly to MW then E&M gets there cut.

As far as changing the stops,I already had the cups drove in when you made the suggestion

They pop out easy enough but I understand if you don't want to do it. If you do want to change them out (I would) wait until mock up is complete and pop out the old ones before you paint and then put the new ones in after. Then just lay the internal stop medallion on your trees, drill out 2 of the 4 holes, tap them and insert some 10-24 screws. It will cost about $110.
If you want to go really sweet, change out the trees to a set of those made by Spade or whatever which already have the cuts for internal stops.
Just remember, no regrets. Spend the extra time or the little extra money to make the bike "yours". Most guys end up saying "on the next bike I will...." before they have even put 500 miles on their machine.

[Punisher]

Originally posted by Phantom
I never know if you are being a smart ass or being serious?

Serious dude

What you said so far has been right on the money!!!

Punisher

[keeper22]

They pop out easy enough but I understand if you don't want to do it. If you do want to change them out (I would) wait until mock up is complete and pop out the old ones before you paint and then put the new ones in after. Then just lay the internal stop medallion on your trees, drill out 2 of the 4 holes, tap them and insert some 10-24 screws. It will cost about $110.

phantom could you explain the difference a little bit. Pictures would be great!!! (and really dumb it down)

[Phantom]

Originally posted by keeper22
phantom could you explain the difference a little bit. Pictures would be great!!! (and really dumb it down)

I am leaving for Anaheim in 2 hours for the Hot Bike bike show so pics will need to wait.
The trees that come with the kit have external stops which means that you can see the stops and they physically press against the frame to stop the front end from going further than it should.
Personally, I don't care for things that move making direct contact with my painted frame if at all possible.

Internal stops are just that, internal. A small tab sticks out of the bottom of the neck or neck cup depending on the frame set-up. That tab then goes into a groove either in a medallian that is screwed on or grooves cut directly in the lower tree.

All "high end" motorcycles use some kind of internal stopping method because it's cleaner, not because it is superior.

[tobor]

I torqued the rear engine bolts and had no need fr shims in front. I put the inner primary on and checked the tranny..
No shims needed.
I put the BDL on and it lined up straighter than hell..



I spun the engine with a ratchet and the belt ran true.


The only prob I had was the longer bolts prvided with the kit to make up for the 1in spacer insert between the engine and the primary.

The threads shoulda been 18s but were 20s.
Went to the local hardware store and got some that were a hair long but I had plenty of room.

[Homegrown]

Hey man that is great that everything lined up so good. I have to use shims on my tranny and motor but nothing major. Keep up the pics.

[Phantom]

The bolt you show in your picture will be fine for mock up but on the final assembly use chrome, stainless, or zinc coated.
It sounds like you have a good head about you and are able to solve problems. I wish you were my customer.

[havok215]

Your build is looking great man! I really like that frame.
Keep the pics coming.