Crankcase vent issue?

TaiPan · #1 (**permalink**) 07-20-2012, 07:22 AM

Been away for a while guys as the pan had been running well! Now I have an issue that has me stuck. My starter broke and I have been kicking the bike but it gets to a spot where I cannot move the kicker! I have had a friend that weighs 240#, 6'4" and he could put all his weight on the kicker and no move! I can get it started if I bounce on the kicker a bit and it will pass that spot, and then it starts and runs fine. Starts OK with electric starter but will kick the starter back occasionally at what must be TDC- cranking compression is 160# and ratio is 10.4:1. I had the generator out while messing with the bike yesterday and it kicked over much easier! It "huffed" air out of the gen mounting hole! Is this a crank vent issue or cam vent issue or what? Like I said, bike starts crisp and runs great once started but very tough to crank past TDC with kicker.

pushrod243 · #2 (**permalink**) 07-20-2012, 05:54 PM

How do you have the case vented? Its prolly just all the compression you have most guys put the bike in gear and try to roll the engine past the compression stroke.

Captain America · #3 (**permalink**) 07-20-2012, 06:11 PM

If you're using the HD oil lines to fill/scavenge the primary it will huff out of the primary(with the starter out) on every down stroke and it will suck on every up stroke, that's how the primary level stays full of a fresh mist of oil.

RedWings · #4 (**permalink**) 07-20-2012, 06:49 PM

10.4:1? ya you need 240 pounds

Thats way to much compression with todays shit gas unless you got a line on airport gas. I would go with the thickest head gasket I could find to lighten up on that compression. You'll save your leg AND starters.

Tortolabob2 · #5 (**permalink**) 07-21-2012, 04:25 AM

What Red says and maybe compression releases too????

TaiPan · #6 (**permalink**) 07-22-2012, 09:56 AM

Your right, Red. I got to use octane boost or it pings- I am running dual plugs so I have been told if I pull out the second plug and go with a comp release, it will run like crap. Not sure about that. Andrews says I can go from the #6 grind cam to a "C" grind to reduce compression. Thicker head gasket is also a good idea.

Thanks for the input. Lets see what happens.

RedWings · #7 (**permalink**) 07-22-2012, 11:11 AM

you need a cam with quick ramps, flat tops and long overlap degrees, bike will run like a mofo then and lower the compression. it'll huff and puff out the carb a bit on starting and shutting down but thats normal. just that alone will ease the kicking problem. another thing that'll make life easier > the stiffest point on the pedal is #1 just what you want. with the key on, bring it up on #1 (do not lock your knee

) it should kick back on you with about 10 pounds of foot pressure or just a wee bit past tdc. When you start it, roll it up just before #1 which you find with the key off, once you roll it around a couple times you'll know where #1 is. When you bring up on #1 don't bring it up tight, you want a head start on kicking so you got momentum to kick it thru #1, I like to have like a 1/8-1/4 pedal room before #1 fires. When you kick it, think of your worse enemy or your ex wife and what you wanna do to their head.

TaiPan · #8 (**permalink**) 07-22-2012, 11:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RedWings

you need a cam with quick ramps, flat tops and long overlap degrees, bike will run like a mofo then and lower the compression. it'll huff and puff out the carb a bit on starting and shutting down but thats normal. just that alone will ease the kicking problem. another thing that'll make life easier > the stiffest point on the pedal is #1 just what you want. with the key on, bring it up on #1 (do not lock your knee

) it should kick back on you with about 10 pounds of foot pressure or just a wee bit past tdc. When you start it, roll it up just before #1 which you find with the key off, once you roll it around a couple times you'll know where #1 is. When you bring up on #1 don't bring it up tight, you want a head start on kicking so you got momentum to kick it thru #1, I like to have like a 1/8-1/4 pedal room before #1 fires. When you kick it, think of your worse enemy or your ex wife and what you wanna do to their head.

Now that is some funny shit, Red! I get the wind up and your description is a big help! The kick instructions are really good! I am about 5'7" and 175# of old man so I got to get my left knee on the seat and punch it with all I got when it is on #1, but it fires right up when I get it right.

OK, next is anyone got a cam recommendation?

RedWings · #9 (**permalink**) 07-22-2012, 01:02 PM

I have a harder time kicking a stock bike than a stroked out beast

There's a learning curve for sure and every one of those bitches start different.

caschnd1 · #10 (**permalink**) 07-22-2012, 07:54 PM

I've run a Crane 296A in my panhead for the last 100K miles. SUPER easy cam for starting. I run a CV40 carb w/ 50/185 jets and a Sportster needle in the carb. Dual plugged heads. Wiseco forged pistons. Oversize intake valves. I get around 8.5:1 compression with this setup. Starts very easy and kicking it is effortless. You don't kick this one hard to start, you just bring #1 up to the compression with the kicker in the 10-o'clock position and push it through nice and smoothly so it rolls through the #1 and #2 compression stroke. A 120# person could kick it.

-Craig