Final Checks.... I hope

[36kings]

Hey All,

Background info to my problem can be found here --> Fried Battery - Solenoid Issue

Well Ballistic were great, they sent me a replacement battery free of charge! WOW..

So I don't want to screw anything up at all this time round..

Installed a new set of All Balls 4g Battery Cables, and I will drop the battery in tomorrow..

Prior to jumping the gun and screwing something up again, I have put the following Output Test sheet together based on some researchable material courtesy of CC

Kept it simple (I can follow and aware of the output paramters), so the title of tests will only make sense to those of you whom have many more years experience in building than I and many others..

So if I do have a dead part, the below tests will isolate the problem, hence saving me $$$ and more importantly time



Open to feedback..

[RedWings]

jesus christ you belong in the bike electrical repair business Put the battery in, hook up the negative, tap the pos post with the pos cable. No spark, hook it up or you can put an ammeter between the cable and batt post, you should get zero reading. Spark, don't hook it up and find the ground. Next, hook up the batt, test 12V at the switch, only 1 term should be hot and no other wires coming off that term. Turn the switch on, there should be no or very little V drop at the batt. (actaully the best way to do this is to disconnect all wires at the switch not including the hot wire, set your meter to amps and check each wire to 12V. You should get no reading unless something is turned on in that circuit or something is grounded out, you'll know if you have a ground, the meter will probably peg.) When all checks out, hook up the electrical system because its ok.

[rastoy]

Hook up the negative last - always.

[36kings]

Originally Posted by RedWings

jesus christ you belong in the bike electrical repair business Put the battery in, hook up the negative, tap the pos post with the pos cable. No spark, hook it up or you can put an ammeter between the cable and batt post, you should get zero reading. Spark, don't hook it up and find the ground. Next, hook up the batt, test 12V at the switch, only 1 term should be hot and no other wires coming off that term. Turn the switch on, there should be no or very little V drop at the batt. (actaully the best way to do this is to disconnect all wires at the switch not including the hot wire, set your meter to amps and check each wire to 12V. You should get no reading unless something is turned on in that circuit or something is grounded out, you'll know if you have a ground, the meter will probably peg.) When all checks out, hook up the electrical system because its ok.

Your going to love this reply

OK so I have good power and grounds (Battery - to starter bolt and - to Frame)..

But I have no spark.. Below is the tests I performed.. I am a little iffy about the Ignition Module LED not staying hard on with ignition on but not cranking.



Any suggestions?

[36kings]

Key thing here is that the bike was running fine for the short period until my plug leads popped off and I drained the battery by not realising they were off.

Then off course I fried the battery for not using the correct charger.

[36kings]

Just made some jumper wires, so tomorrow I'll try the following:

Jump pos from battery to centre terminal on coil
Jump neg from battery to left to right terminal

Momentarily disconnect the neg jump to see if this produces a spark with the plug against the engine heads.

If it sparks then I have a good coil, if not spark the coil is screwed.

Why would my coil read almost double the amount of ohms when measured from the plug sockets?

[Aussiechop]

If by plug socket you mean spark plug lead, spark plug leads have very high resistance. It is kind of sounding like you have a coil problem. I'm interested in how this pans out, you're on the right track anyway.

[36kings]

Originally Posted by Aussiechop

If by plug socket you mean spark plug lead, spark plug leads have very high resistance. It is kind of sounding like you have a coil problem. I'm interested in how this pans out, you're on the right track anyway.

Tested at the coil without plugd and it reads 24k ohms..

[36kings]

Ok I tested the coil by jumping the pos and neg off the battery, still not spark so at least now I know my coil is shot!

Has anyone used at Motor Factory coil?

Looking at purchasing one of those..

[Aussiechop]

Great work man.

[36kings]

Originally Posted by Aussiechop

Great work man.

Thanks mate!

Received my new coil today, tested the ohms output..

Brass terminal to terminal reads good..

But when I test the output from spark plug post to post it reads about 17K.. No leads attached..

Hope I get some spark over the weekend.. I want to enjoy the god damn build somewhat.

[Aussiechop]

Good luck buddy!

[36kings]

Ok, back at square one.. No spark..

I double checked everything so I'm really depending on some thoughts by you all to help this brother out..

Prior to mounting everythinng up i wanted to test the new coil with no wires or plugs connected.

Primary resistance - 3.1 ohms
Secondary resistance - 16.6K ohms (way above the 12K as per manual)
Continuity check - + terminal to either - terminal has continuity
Continuity check - plug lead post to post, no continuity
Continuity check - either plug lead post to -/+, no continuity

My old screwed coil measured
Primary resistance - 2.7 ohms
Secondary resistance - 24.3K ohms
All continuity tests are exactly the same as above.

Jumped the new coil from battery pos to centre pos terminal on coil, momentarily grounded from battery and no spark. Changed leads, spark plugs but still no good.

Fucking dumbfounded at the moment..

Using a multimeter I performed the following:

Checked continuity from battery neg terminal to engine and frame - both good

Checked for continuity between engine (grounded) and all wires at the fuse box to check for any shorts, found that my headlight hot (yellow in diagram) was continual to ground. Must be shorted somewhere, but this shouldn't cause the no spark issue. So I disconnected the wire from the fuse box for now, so it has no power draw.

Measured VDC output from battery pos to engine (grounded) - 13.3VDC

Disconnected the neg cables from battery and measured VDC from neg battery terminal to disconnected neg battery cable to measure draw - 1.27VDC

Not sure if the above draw is acceptable, but my grounds look good and the test above confirms that.

I'm stuck and need some help before I go out and purchase another coil. I'm confident my ignition module is good..

Could I have received a doa coil? Or am I jumping them incorrectly and burning the coil?

Wiring diagram below..

[Aussiechop]

Could be a chance you're jumping the coil incorrectly, is there a way to ask the manufacturer the correct procedure?

What signals the coil for spark? The Ignition module? Can you swap a known good one?

[36kings]

Well the OG was Ultima, the new one is a Mid West... I can search a little more but I'm finding that I have covered everything..

Coil is signalled by my electronic ignition, but I have not hooked up the ignition as I'm trying to jump test the coild before I mount everything down..