Final Checks.... I hope

[DarinZ]

Why don't you just hook your electronic ignition module up " Usually...pink neg post, white center + post, blue neg post" to the coil, run a power wire to battery and atach to center + post of coil along with white ignition wire. Put the plugs in and crank that sucker over. If it doesn't start it's one of two things, coil or module. Make sure you know which wire corosponds to front and rear cylinder.

[36kings]

Originally Posted by pushrod243

With bike all together try starting but check battery voltage before and then while cranking. If the battery voltage drops under 10.5 volts you have bad battery or a drop somewhere along the way. Giving that you are cranking with a push button solenoid I'd look hard at the battery even if its a new one. The litium style batteries will crank the crap out of the engine but still drop voltage too low while cranking to spark the plugs. Everything will check right along the way you will only find this by doing a voltage drop test.....

Did the voltage drop test while cranking and it read about 9.8VDC. Measured the battery after this and it read 13.2VDC.

Brank spanking new battery, so not sure of this is the issue.

I decided to pull my wiring out as being my first ground up build I was a little concerned about my internal wiring... Look what I discovered below..

This wire is key lights - blue.. Must have been shorting out... I checked all of the ignition module wiring and it seems fine as the loom is wrapped in the cloth wrap from factory...

For the sake of being sane and safe, I willbe running all wires but the ignition module externally, it is a bobber after all.

I still want to know how I can properly test the coil by bypassing the loom all together, with a temp ground...

[36kings]

Originally Posted by DarinZ

Why don't you just hook your electronic ignition module up " Usually...pink neg post, white center + post, blue neg post" to the coil, run a power wire to battery and atach to center + post of coil along with white ignition wire. Put the plugs in and crank that sucker over. If it doesn't start it's one of two things, coil or module. Make sure you know which wire corosponds to front and rear cylinder.

Tried this and still didn't start or no spark..

[Aussiechop]

Nice find with the wire. You pulled all the wiring out?

If the cranking voltage is 9.8V, and if it needs min of 10.5, that could be the cause, do you have a battery tester to check CCA? I know with some of our cars if the voltage is too low if won't start the car, even though checking the battery it will still read 12.4V.

I'm sorry man hectic day today, forgot the multimeter. Will do it tomorrow if you're still interested.

[36kings]

Not sure if it is a battery issue, reason being as follows:

Bike was working and cranking fine with my Ballistic EVO2 12 cell up until the plugs came off the coil whilst riding. Tried cranking it over and over again but nothing.

Replaced the battery with a Ballistic EVO2 16 cell which has over 400CCA, bike cranks but no spark.

I've pulled out all the wiring.. Will re wire over the next couple of weeks.

I would really appreciate if someone can tell me how I can test my coil off a car battery or whatever? I'm convinced this is a coil issue as my ignition seems fine apart from the fact it pulses while the ignition was off..

I'm going to install a Cole Herse Ignitin Key Start since I'm re wiring the whole bike. Until I can be sure it isn't my coils, I want don't want to cough up another 200+ for a Braille or Ballistic battery as these are the only sizes that fit in my battery tray.

[pushrod243]

If the voltage drops below 10volts while cranking most ignitions will not fire. I think your battery is too small or not fully charged. The lithuim batteries will do this.......

[Razorback]

Nver mind I deleted my post ya'll are way ahead of me. Didn't see two more pages of post.

[36kings]

Originally Posted by pushrod243

If the voltage drops below 10volts while cranking most ignitions will not fire. I think your battery is too small or not fully charged. The lithuim batteries will do this.......

I might purchase a cheaper AGM battery to check to see if it fires, then if it does I'll be hitting you up for a Braille battery..

[36kings]

Originally Posted by pushrod243

If the voltage drops below 10volts while cranking most ignitions will not fire. I think your battery is too small or not fully charged. The lithuim batteries will do this.......

If the battery is showing at 13.2VDC I'm assuming it's charged..

Before I kill another battery should I test to see if the coil will fire with my car battery which is off a spanking new Dodge Nitro?

Just want to avoid coughing up needless $$$

[36kings]

While reading through CC as I continue to research I found the following thread

Bad ignition module? How to diagnose?

Considering I have checked everything and not the regulator, once I finish off the wiring (again) I'm going to try and crank her over without the regulator connected to battery, perhaps she is the problem? Worth a go..

[36kings]

Received my key start ignition today, but a little confused about the wiring on it..

Pins/connectors
A Start - this obviously connects to the starter solenoid spade connector
I Ignition - to coil + post, lights
P Power - hot source
C Choke - push for choke, but in my case horn I guess
2 x M Magneto - what the???

What are the magneto pins for? I'm am assuming I don't have to actually use them.

Thanks,
Jeb

[RedWings]

those are probably ground pins to kill the magneto if you're running one

[Aussiechop]

Hey Kings, finally remembered to bring home my multimeter today, would you like me to still carry out checks? if so, what?

[36kings]

Originally Posted by Aussiechop

Hey Kings, finally remembered to bring home my multimeter today, would you like me to still carry out checks? if so, what?

Hey there mate..

If you don't mind can you run the following tests?

- Measure output of primary and secondary resistance on coil
- Continuaty check on primary, then secondary, then across primary and secondary
- Measure ground to coil continuaty primary where module pulses (either side with ignition off and kill switch open if installed)

That would be a great help...

Thanks,
Jeb

[Wicked80]

40k volts in spark wire with no ground( no plug/loose) can backfeed into the source.taking out coil and or ignition module. stop testing that way , sounds like bad ignition module and the new coil been back fed and killed already

voltage always finds ground one way or the other, if not by the design direction then from the source taking out diodes etc