Final Checks.... I hope - Page 2

Aussiechop · #16 (**permalink**) 06-09-2012, 03:34 AM

Ah right, so you're getting no spark when you test the coil using a battery. When you're testing the coil, do you have the 2 leads on the 2 points, with spark plugs in and and earth on the end of the plug?

36kings · #17 (**permalink**) 06-09-2012, 03:47 AM

See pic below, this is the way I have been trying to jump it.. Obviously the spark plug is against the jugs, gator clips wires connected to battery and I momentarily connect the negative to coil.

I have not tried jumping it with the other lead in and connected to the spark plug on the engine. Could this be the issue as the coil is not constant grounded? I'm flipping out here.. But learning heaps to I gues..

Aussiechop · #18 (**permalink**) 06-09-2012, 04:51 AM

Are you grounding the spark plug too? I would hook up both leads and plugs. Not sure about the coil needing to be constant grounded?

36kings · #19 (**permalink**) 06-09-2012, 05:09 AM

Just tried jumping as follows:

Installed both plug leads and connected front cylinder lead to spark plug installed in engine (grounded)

Grabbed other lead with spark plug installed and leant it against the jugs, hooked up pos to battery and neg to battery.. Still no spark..

When I momentarily touch the neg terminal on either side of the coil, I get small faint blue sparks at the terminal.. Almost like there is a short in the coil...

Stressing dude.. Good weather is coming in next few days so was really keen to get on the rd again..

Aussiechop · #20 (**permalink**) 06-09-2012, 05:23 AM

Damn.. you don't have it set up backwards do you? I don't know man, I guess you have to be 100% sure you're testing it correctly.

36kings · #21 (**permalink**) 06-09-2012, 05:24 AM

I'm sure I read that if you set your multimeter to perform a continuity test and DON'T have continuity on the secondary windings where the leads connect, then the coil is bad..

Can anyone confirm this, perhaps quickly checking your own good coil?

36kings · #22 (**permalink**) 06-09-2012, 05:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aussiechop

Damn.. you don't have it set up backwards do you? I don't know man, I guess you have to be 100% sure you're testing it correctly.

Definitely not backwards.. Let's see what comes of this thread overnight..

Aussiechop · #23 (**permalink**) 06-09-2012, 05:42 AM

I would do it to mine if I had my multimeter here man! If no one checks by monday I'll do it for sure!

36kings · #24 (**permalink**) 06-09-2012, 09:03 AM

Thanks mate.

Any thoughts from others on here?

36kings · #25 (**permalink**) 06-09-2012, 07:34 PM

Anyone? Help a brother out.. lol

36kings · #26 (**permalink**) 06-09-2012, 09:26 PM

Decided to bolt up the coil and hook up all the wiring from the loom - no jumping.

Here are some further tests

Ignition Key Off - Test Light tests

Hooked up one end of test light to post terminal on battery - to check ignition.

- Positive terminal on coil, test light pulsates (don't think this should be the case)
- Both negative terminals on coil, test light pulsates (wtf?)
- Measured VDC at positive terminal, zero VDC.

Ignition Key On - test light tests but without cranking engine.

Hooked up one end of test light to post terminal on battery - to check ignition

- Positive terminal on coil, test light steady on
- Both negative terminals on coil, test light doesn't light up
- Measured VDC at positive terminal, 13.2VDC

Ignition Key On - test light tests but while cranking engine.

- Positive terminal on coil, test light steady on
- Both negative terminals on coil, test light pulsates

Summary:

Looks like the ignition module is doing what it's supposed to do whilst cranking. But why the fuck is it pulsating when the ignition key is off and there is no VDC at the pos terminal on the coil?

Need some help here guys.. Busted my chops running these thorough tests, so I think I may have narrowed it down for some suggestions.

Thanks,
Jeb

pushrod243 · #27 (**permalink**) 06-10-2012, 07:52 AM

Sounds like the ignition is functioning. The coil takes power in and builds a charge that sparks the plugs with a negative trigger. If you leave the 12+ on without discharging the coil it will severely damage the coil. I am guessing you ign mod has a safety feature to prevent that......

Does the bike run? I assume no? I am coming in late here sorry

36kings · #28 (**permalink**) 06-10-2012, 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pushrod243

Sounds like the ignition is functioning.

Does the bike run? I assume no? I am coming in late here sorry

Hey John thanks for getting back to me..

The bike is definitely not running...

If you look at my last post why is the ignition module signalling without the key switch being on and no power to the coil? Would this indicate something open or shorting..

I don't runs kill switch just a key..

2 x coils dead, what's the chances of that?

36kings · #29 (**permalink**) 06-10-2012, 08:12 AM

Also what is the right procedure of jumping the coil by bypassing the ignition module, am I doing it right?

pushrod243 · #30 (**permalink**) 06-10-2012, 09:10 AM

With bike all together try starting but check battery voltage before and then while cranking. If the battery voltage drops under 10.5 volts you have bad battery or a drop somewhere along the way. Giving that you are cranking with a push button solenoid I'd look hard at the battery even if its a new one. The litium style batteries will crank the crap out of the engine but still drop voltage too low while cranking to spark the plugs. Everything will check right along the way you will only find this by doing a voltage drop test.....