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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2017, 10:12 AM
slytat666's Avatar
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Question Cable/hydraulic front brake setup ??

I致e seen a few bikes with a twist clutch lever for internal clutch cable, used to actuate the front brakes via a foot brake cylinder with reservoir. I知 looking at cleaning up my handle bars and I am running an internal throttle already, but would like to get rid of the bulky front brake lever and reservoir. Where I am we have to have to have a front brake.

Has anyone done this setup with success and still being safe?
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2017, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slytat666 View Post
I致e seen a few bikes with a twist clutch lever for internal clutch cable, used to actuate the front brakes via a foot brake cylinder with reservoir. I知 looking at cleaning up my handle bars and I am running an internal throttle already, but would like to get rid of the bulky front brake lever and reservoir. Where I am we have to have to have a front brake.

Has anyone done this setup with success and still being safe?
Here's an alternative.

3 of my bikes have front and rear brakes connected to a single foot master cylinder[like car]
On 2 bikes i didn't even need a proportion valve- because i have 2 front calipers and one rear giving me a reasonable ratio. front vs rear.

On one bike i actually have dual rear calipers + single front[ all the same size 2 piston Grimeca/brembo style f08. Works fine as well.

If i did it again, i would use dual bore master for safety, although my single hydraulic system never failed me so far.

I saw online a nice dual bore master cylinder[5/8+5/8] that could be installed with foot brake-and separate 2 independent brake systemshttps://secure.chassisshop.com/partdetail/717-5-8-5-8/

Given i also have foot clutch and manual shifters on 3 bikes- the handlebars are as clean as can be[ although i refuse to use the internal throttle]


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SORRY FOR THE UPPER CASE. I AIN'T YELLING. I JUST MAKE TOO MANY TYPOS IN THE LOWER.

113"s&s, Walz softail 2000/2012 prostreet
96"s&s, Daytec dyna/ softail hybrid, 2010 chopper
127"Ultima, Chassis Design rigid 2013 bobber
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2017, 02:33 PM
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I’m running a springer front end, with a sprotter rear brake set up. Would you think a proporting valve be needed? Also how did you run your front brake lines?
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Old 09-27-2017, 02:41 PM
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I will also be running a foot clutch, what kit are you using on your evo bike I’m running an ultima 6 speed transmission with forward controls....
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Old 09-27-2017, 05:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slytat666 View Post
I知 running a springer front end, with a sprotter rear brake set up. Would you think a proporting valve be needed? Also how did you run your front brake lines?
1) Some people may argue that you want 70% braking to be in the front ( so you don,t skid) that,s why if front and rear calipers are relatively equal, they use proportioning valve.
On my small bobber, as I said I use 2 rear calipers and one front without any valve( so it,s reverse proportion!). And I do just fine( I,m not a moron to lock the brakes in a turn) You can hook up without the valve , test ride it and , if necessary- retrofit the valve later.

2) I have simple $60 3/4" bore Kelsey-Hayes master cylinder for all aforementioned bikes. 2 bikes with modified forwards and floor boards. And one( long chopper) - just forwards.
My small bobber( ROUGH'N'RAW on to tank) has a setup you seem to be trying to achieve. I Used a dual banjo bolt on the master cylinder. And 1 banjo/ line travels for rear brake( bottom right rail, but in your case it will cross over to the left), and another banjo / long line travels along the right front leg of the frame, loosely loops within the springer top( some between the springs) and dives down to the left side where the front caliper is located. Again, the line is relatively loose from the loop down to the caliper so you can turn the front end without pinching it!
I will try to make pictures.
__________________
VITALY.
SORRY FOR THE UPPER CASE. I AIN'T YELLING. I JUST MAKE TOO MANY TYPOS IN THE LOWER.

113"s&s, Walz softail 2000/2012 prostreet
96"s&s, Daytec dyna/ softail hybrid, 2010 chopper
127"Ultima, Chassis Design rigid 2013 bobber
120"Ultima, Kraft Tech rigid 2014 bobber

Last edited by STEINBVG; 09-28-2017 at 11:38 AM..
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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2017, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slytat666 View Post
I will also be running a foot clutch, what kit are you using on your evo bike I知 running an ultima 6 speed transmission with forward controls....
The best setup I made on my long chopper. The cable is routed better and cleaner(under the bike between the motor and trany) 2 other bike loop the clutch cable in front of the bike, not as clean.

Any forwards can be modified for foot clutch.
I typically cut the shifting arm and drill a hole for cable at about 1.5" from the pivot point. Perhaps you can leave the arm intact, just drill a hole,if you later can return to door shifting.
From a steel angle I make a bracket that holds the cable's jacket in place and it gets stationary fixed somewhere on the body of the left forward control ( I will try to make pictures, but just search the web images.)

I have a video walk around of my bobber, there you can see the foot clutch, the bracket and a loop of the front brake line in front of the tank, crossing the neck of the bike to the left side.

One more thing. I cheated. I have an automatic clutch, not suicide foot clutch. I tried it on this bike and got scared shitless. Besides. With only foot brake, how the hell you can start riding uphill with the suicide clutch?

PS, use The kind of short foot clutch cable, where the adjustment is located at the very end which gets connected to the foot pedal. If the clutch has adjustment in the middle, trany oil might be dripping from that spot because it will be lower than the oil level
__________________
VITALY.
SORRY FOR THE UPPER CASE. I AIN'T YELLING. I JUST MAKE TOO MANY TYPOS IN THE LOWER.

113"s&s, Walz softail 2000/2012 prostreet
96"s&s, Daytec dyna/ softail hybrid, 2010 chopper
127"Ultima, Chassis Design rigid 2013 bobber
120"Ultima, Kraft Tech rigid 2014 bobber
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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2017, 01:01 PM
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Thank you for all the info, I’m still in the process of switching bars and getting foot clutch setup first that I will worry about front brake ideas after...
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Old 10-21-2017, 07:24 PM
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Your running a foot clutch setup? I’m switching to a foot clutch, just wondering how you used your forward controls to convert. What bracket was used or did u make a bracket. The only foot clutch cable I could find was 36” length from barnett
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Old 10-22-2017, 03:50 PM
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My foot clutch setup

Quote:
Originally Posted by slytat666 View Post
Your running a foot clutch setup? I知 switching to a foot clutch, just wondering how you used your forward controls to convert. What bracket was used or did u make a bracket. The only foot clutch cable I could find was 36 length from barnett
Here,s the setup on my chopper. Cable routed underneath, between motor and transmission.
Some generic forward controls. I dissembled the shifter axle/ arm and sandwiched a cable holding bracket made of a steel angle, I believe 3/16 thick. I had to remove the existing round aluminumspacer on the axle and replace it with thinner one- to compensate for the addition of 3/16. The bracket has to be stationary attached on the forwards backing plate ( I believe I pinned along with other round spacers to prevent from rotating) .
You can improvise the bracket and attach it anywhere you want, perhaps even bolt it to the engine, primary plate etc.

The shifter arm was cut( don,t have to if plan to return to shifting) , rounded up and the cable end holding hole was drilled at 1.5 from pivot center.
The banjo of the cable is held a rotating bushing/ perch that is bolted the shifter arm so it,s smoothly operated .
__________________
VITALY.
SORRY FOR THE UPPER CASE. I AIN'T YELLING. I JUST MAKE TOO MANY TYPOS IN THE LOWER.

113"s&s, Walz softail 2000/2012 prostreet
96"s&s, Daytec dyna/ softail hybrid, 2010 chopper
127"Ultima, Chassis Design rigid 2013 bobber
120"Ultima, Kraft Tech rigid 2014 bobber
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  #10 (permalink)  
Old 10-23-2017, 02:40 PM
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That’s looks sweet! How did u route the cable, I did the same way and there was too much of a bend in cable to allow for proper pull. How long is your cable? I found a kit for fawned controls and looks like the cable goes under the engine. All I have been able to find is 63” foot clutch cables.... I know it’s simple but difficult with such a small area.
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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 10-23-2017, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slytat666 View Post
That痴 looks sweet! How did u route the cable, I did the same way and there was too much of a bend in cable to allow for proper pull. How long is your cable? I found a kit for fawned controls and looks like the cable goes under the engine. All I have been able to find is 63 foot clutch cables.... I know it痴 simple but difficult with such a small area.
Here,s the 36 cable. Knowing the part number in v twin catalog - see if you can find cheaper.

36-0516: FOOT CLUTCH CONVERSION KIT;CABLE ONLY
Click
I saw on e bay, under 60 bucks. It seems to be the same https://www.ebay.com/itm/36-Black-Cl...dZ1OvH&vxp=mtr

As far as my routing, I spiraled it with right hand twist- from trany, down, left( between engine and trany) up and forward to the bracket. I held it in place and moved a bit the cable coils till I found a relaxed position where there were no kinks. It gives and flexes a bit. It stayed for a while, flexed and seems to be working fine.
On v twin catalog, they show a few ways to route.
Search net for images of foot clutch setup. Bunch of pictures there.
__________________
VITALY.
SORRY FOR THE UPPER CASE. I AIN'T YELLING. I JUST MAKE TOO MANY TYPOS IN THE LOWER.

113"s&s, Walz softail 2000/2012 prostreet
96"s&s, Daytec dyna/ softail hybrid, 2010 chopper
127"Ultima, Chassis Design rigid 2013 bobber
120"Ultima, Kraft Tech rigid 2014 bobber

Last edited by STEINBVG; 10-23-2017 at 04:51 PM..
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