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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2015, 02:59 PM
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need advice

i have a 98 rg efi. the rear head gasket just started leaking, left rear bolt keeps coming loose, even after proper torque is applied. i am planning on using cometic gaskets for a top end rebuild. should i replace the cylinder stud and headbolt also? any tips wouls be appreciated. have never taken the top end apart other than rocker boxes, but doe not look very difficult. thanks


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Old 07-19-2015, 04:52 PM
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You are right ..it is not a difficult task doing a top end job on those..but all those bolts do need lock tite..they will all rattle loose..I wouldn't worry about replacing studs and such but they do need to be stainless steel..and be very careful about using a torque wrench on those bolts ..there are some threads here about stripping out bolts..using book torque values..I would just go by feel....but many will disagree with that..
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Old 07-19-2015, 06:54 PM
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Those head studs need to be installed to a specific height and are susceptible to bending. Get a HD manual for your engine and make sure your studs are not damaged and are at the correct installed height since you have an issue...new studs may be the answer.
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Old 07-19-2015, 08:59 PM
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The service suggests replacing the studs everytime you take it apart. Most never do but if you have a recurring problem I definitely replace them or at the very least replace the loose ones. I would also look very hard at the cases to be sure they are not cracked. If they are they will never hold a stud no matter what you do. It was very common for the cases to crack around the cam side of the rear cylinder. The cases are very thin between the lifter blocks and the cylinder and theres an oil passage there that weakens the cases even more.
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Old 07-21-2015, 06:52 AM
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probably the biggest reason to replace studs is not because the studs have reached their service limits, but because the threads in that case, and the threads on that stud, both become worn smoother with each application. this does not weaken either, but instead reduces installation friction, which accounts for as much as or even more than half of the installation torque. so, therein lies the answer to why holes strip out at factory installation torque specs upon reinstallation. because torque specs rely so heavily on an unknown (and, as illustrated here, changing) friction coefficient, they really are a shot in the dark to some extent.

so, if you reuse studs, reduce installation torque. how much? it's anybody's guess.

use new studs, then at least one of two mating surfaces will have a friction coefficient somewhat close to what was assumed when torque values were calculated by the factory.
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Old 07-21-2015, 06:53 AM
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probably the biggest reason to replace studs is not because the studs have reached their service limits, but because the threads in that case, and the threads on that stud, both become worn smoother with each application. this does not weaken either, but instead reduces installation friction, which accounts for as much as or even more than half of the installation torque. so, therein lies the answer to why holes strip out at factory installation torque specs upon reinstallation. because torque specs rely so heavily on an unknown (and, as illustrated here, changing) friction coefficient, they really are a shot in the dark to some extent.

so, if you reuse studs, reduce installation torque. how much? it's anybody's guess.

use new studs, then at least one of two mating surfaces will have a friction coefficient somewhat close to what was assumed when torque values were calculated by the factory.
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Old 07-28-2015, 07:51 PM
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thanks everyone for all the advice. i had some issues loging in, found out that i caused them. anyway i did just the rear head gasket. everything looked good as far as head and cylinder surface. the gasket was blown out at the one bolt. i have put just over 100 miles on since the repair and the bike runs great. thanks again.
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